Hiking – Page 6 – wandering chardonnay

Wyoming…..it’s all good

If my last post sounded a bit dire. I was in mood for sure. I usually try to stay upbeat and keep my down moments for my personal journal. Honestly though everything isn’t always wildlife and butterflies out here.

The tough times are hard to share, who whips out a camera when things bad, not me. (Well you might have enjoyed seeing us crawl in the snow when we couldn’t walk!!)

Actually the stress was mostly from being off trail. The four day stretch to get from New Mexico to Wyoming was intense. Hitchhiking can be fun, unless you have a bus to catch. Taking the bus is never fun, especially when it overheats and you might miss you connection. Then our 12am bus was packed, so of course an hour from our stop a tire blows.

Finally we are back on trail and I am feeling much better. Wyoming is flat but beautiful. Leaving Rawlins we continued our jail tour! On our road walk out of town the wind blew my hat off and across the highway. As I ran for it a motorcyclist pulled over to see if I was ok and offered me a ride. Man I wanted to take it as a hitch on a motorcycle is on my to do list. But I passed, not going my way. Thanks for stopping!

Wyoming State Penitentiary Ticks!
There are A LOT of ticks in this section. So I am wearing long pants even in the heat of the day and in tick paranoid mode. Water is scarce, I think I need a class on operating solar powered spring, not a single one has worked.

But I’m hiking…..so life is good. Thanks everyone for the kind words, support and encouragement.

Colorado you win…for now.

CDT, Hiking

Soooo, plans have changed, as they do. Left Chama and was in so much snow. We were moving at a snail’s pace, maybe slower without snowshoes. With all the snow we are consistently wearing crampons and even with neoprene socks my feet get wet and numb. Camping at high elevation (11000 to 12000 feet) is really cold. Only doing about 10 miles a day made the section way longer than expected, so running out of food was a strong possibility.

I knew Colorado would be tough but it kicked my butt. The first day only did 10 miles. Didn’t make it to water source so I had to melt snow. You know how long it takes to melt snow, forever. Being slightly dehydrated I had leg cramps through out the night. Agh.

On the 3rd day out we started out optimistic, but within a mile the post-holing began (taking a step on packed snow, only to hit a soft spot and sink straight down into it). So much so we actually crawled at one point. It takes a lot of energy if you sink in really deep, say up to the hip, just pulling your leg from the hole is a real chore. A group of guys came by moving at a pretty good clip. We thought we could fall in behind them and at least not have to consult our maps every mile. (the trail is under all that snow so you are constantly checking to see if you are even remotely on trail) However that was about when it started hailing, then snowing, sideways!

Long story short that was enough for me. This was not meant to be torture. Nor did I want to die of hypothermia, know when to say when. So we hiked the 22 miles back to Chama, New Mexico. That in itself was an experience also as it stormed on us both days returning. I have never been so wet and cold. Kelsey had to talk me through some high current stream crossings (while snapping photos!) Have you every been on a snow bridge? Scary. Hearing the rushing water underneath your feet, praying your next step won’t send you plunging in the icy water.

Snow melt is so cold

Back at the Y Motel Ann and Bud took care of us, again! They used to live in Poway, CA!! Thanks for getting us to Pagosa Springs Bud (see ya in August).

So, yea, current plan is to flip up to Wyoming and head north, then back to end in Colorado. Or something like that, the logistics is, well complicated. Let the hitchhiking, bus riding adventure commence!

It’s not me It’s you…..

CDT, Hiking

New Mexico I’m moving on, it’s time. You tested me in ways I never imagined. The heat in the desert with no shade to found, to the cold temps that I was not expecting. There were winds that about blew me right off the trail.

Your amount of wildlife is Incredible, a bear, elk, rabbits, COWS, rattle snakes, turkeys, and a bird that looked like a Cornish hen!

Crossing the Gila river so many times I lost count. Such a contrast to the high current ice cold streams that numbed my feet in the north. I will never forget how my heart pounded and legs shaked as I crossed on a downed log. Your many, many gates and fences.

Wading in the water

The scenery you provided brought western movies and Georgia O’Keefe paintings to life. The one night I cowboy camped I felt like a bandit, but the star filled sky seemed so close I could touch it.

Your small towns made it hard to return to the trail at times. So many friendly, generous and kind people helping make this journey easier.

As my first state on the CDT you didn’t make it easy. Embrace the Brutality, indeed. I doubted myself at times, but your challenges have made me stronger.

So I’m off to face the snowy mountains of Colorado. Thanks for the memories New Mexico!

Slow going

CDT, Hiking

When the weather was warm it was easy to get up early, hike 20 mile days and stick to a schedule. Then it got cold. (Yes, I realize I will more than likely be cold til, well Wyoming.) Cold mornings mean late starts, short days and low miles. So I am “behind schedule” so to speak. But then plans tend to change daily out here, I should know better.

20170524_075532

We had planned to roll in and out of Ghost Ranch, nope. A storm rolled in just as we picked up our winter gear packages. $35.00 campsite in the rain didn’t sound appealing so we hopped a free shuttle to Sante Fe. That didn’t pan out either. The bus dropped us “near” a hotel way out of price range. We must have been a sight, walking in the rain, full packs, carrying axes and boxes! See ya Santa Fe, we hopped the bus back to a town called Espanola. Good place, friendly people and cheap motels. Valerie at the Days Inn even offered a ride 30 miles back to the trail!

Now I like town days (especially when Survivor happens to be on) showers, sleeping in a bed, reorganizing my pack (where do I attach this ice axe? ), and watching it snow from inside! But honestly all that sitting around zaps your trail legs.

Back on trail we were moving pretty slow to start. But then Kelsey got sick and the snow got deeper. So what was a section that was supposed to take 4 days to hike took 6 days.

Then as we were packing up I tore a huge hole in my backpack! I patched it up with duct tape and a sleeping pad patch kit. Hopefully it will hold.

N. New Mexico

Now I’m not complaining, ok yes I am. It is SO cold and crazy windy. Even had to break out the crampons for the steep section into Chama. Thanks to the warmers from Leslie the nights have been warmer! Hot coffee in the morning is a great warm up too!

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On the upside, made it to Colorado!! 800 miles done. Plus so much more wildlife, a lot of elk, turkey’s, (chipmunks) little beasties tried to take my gummy bears, and paw prints I have yet to identify. Over appreciating nature one mile at a time!

This cold weather is killin my spirit.

CDT, Hiking

Just when you think you have things figured out, the trail will throw something else at you. Left Cuba, NM feeling pretty good, only hiked about 5 of the up hill miles and camped. Turns out that was a better plan than doing the whole 12 miles up and over the mountain.

20170513_161255 — Nice spot before things went south.

The next morning we thought we’d just crank out the next climb. Wrong. As we climbed things just got worse and worse. On the upside I saw my first bear! I saw him first and when I started making noise he ran. Anyway we crossed a stream getting our feet wet but thought they’d soon dry out, wrong again! For the next 5 miles we were in, surprise, snow. Not just snow but also melting ice cold run off. It was SO cold. You don’t know cold til you’ve walked in ice water for an hour. Seriously we were post-holing in icy water up to our knees at times. My feet were numb, so we stopped changed socks and put plastic bags over our feet.

winter gear in tow

Cold water meadow

Treeman!

20170514_133513 — Bags on feet….photo cred Kelsey

Treeman caught up to us soon after. He is a super nice German guy with long legs and pretty fast. He was just plowing through the snow with his neoprene socks. He left a whole day after us, that’s how slow we were.

This was easily our worst section, thus far. The plastic bags added insulation but did nothing to stop them from being wet. It took us most of the day to complete that climb and start down, what with the blow downs on the decent. At one break we just sat and laughed (to keep from crying) at the ridiculousness of it all. There was no out, just through. I have never been so glad to get to camp.

This section weighed heavily on us as we knew it was just a precursor to what awaited us in Colorado. We camped that night with Youngblood who asked what our plan was for Colorado. We have none. Both Yougblood and Treeman are getting off trail for a week to wait for the snow to melt. They also both have ordered snowshoes for Colorado. Neither Kelsey or I have snowshoes. I don’t want them as I don’t have any idea how I’d carry them.

Trail being the trail the next day we descended further to warmer temps and spectacular views. We headed for Ghost Ranch, where Georgia O’keeffe’s paintings come to life.

Ghost Ranch is beautiful and you can rent cabins there. We hurried to get there for lunch in the cafeteria, it was so good. Of course while hanging at Ghost Ranch the clouds rolled in rain and cold temps followed. Why is it so cold, not good for my morale. Now that we have received our cold weather gear (re: extra weight) we will pause and try to figure out what to do next. Just plowing through the San Juan mountains might not work, there is still much snow. In the Sierras on the PCT I just plowed through (highly unprepared) I had no idea what I was getting myself into. Ignorance is bliss.

Podcast giggles

AT, CDT, Hiking, PCT

Checkout my podcast is out on Hike Like a Woman! It was my first time doing a podcast interview. We did the interview back in December 2016, so I was still in trail CDT prep mode. Rebecca is a great interviewer, checkout some of her other interviews of inspiring women. I was nervous, if you can’t tell, thus all the giggling. Listening to myself was strange, my own voice sounds weird to me. Hindsight being 20/20 I wish I had answered some questions, not differently, but more completely. Oh well, hope you check it out! It’s good a chuckle.

So 2 Canadians and a S. African walk into a hostel….

CDT, Hiking

If my info is correct about 250 attempt to hike the CDT every year. Compare that to the over 2000 that take on the PCT and 3000 on the AT. Seeing, well anybody, on this trail is rare. In the last 5 days we have seen only one other hiker. Top that with the fact there is no signal (what up Verizon, just sayin). You are so on your own out here.

It really hit me on that 7 day stretch between towns (I’m using that term loosly). At one point we were 2 days walk from well, anything. Have you ever been that isolated?

I have to say I’m glad to have Kelsey to hike with. She’s a great hiker, done both the PCT (where we met) and the AT. She knows how to work the digital maps that I’m still figuring out. (I’ve always just used paper maps, old school). We get on each others nerves at times, we are from vastly different worlds and all. But she has a good sense of humor. When things go bad out here (getting lost, running out of food/water, being wet for hours, freezing….) It helps big time to have someone to laugh through it with. Our common phrase is: this is gonna be funny later.

We made it to Pie Town, I think there maybe more Hikers here than towns people. But they are nice people, they have pie and a nice hostel called the Toaster House. Some of the Hikers even helped a neighbor with some yard work.

Breakfast at the Pieoneer!

Helping the community

So the other hikers, right. There is Fun Size she’s from Alaska, Treeman showed up he went Trail Days(an annual thru hike CDT kickoff in Silver City) so we got ahead of him. He tells us there are a bunch of hikers about a week and half behind us. (Guess nobody is eager to face the San Juan snow) There is also Canadian brothers Ian and Liam hiking with Kate from S. Africa. So international…..The Trail Unites Us! Oh and Jordan who is road tripping his way to AT trail days. So the hostel is fullish.

We all decided to take a zero day (no trail miles) and just kick it at the hostel. The Canadians convinced us, hmm. The closest grocery store is 20 miles away. But yeah Jordan is taking us to get ‘supplies’. Looking forward to a rest day, cards (spoon tournament) and socializing.

Gila National Forest, Silver City

CDT, Hiking

What a difference a day makes out of the desert into the Gila National Forest which has trees that provide shade!! There was also Trail Magic ( Trail Magic, is an unexpected act of kindness, and is a big part of the trail experience for many long-distance hikers).

Heinken and Goldfish great fuel for the 5 miles climb we had ahead of us. We climbed up to 7000 feet, which led to a pretty chilly morning wake up. Stayed in my sleeping bag an extra half hour waiting for the sun to warm things up!

We’ve gotten lost like twice en route to Silver City. Only like 700 yards off trail, but it’s annoying to realize you must have missed a turn or something. Then have to find your way back, preferably without any back tracking.

Oh yeah, so while we were morning hiking I heard a noise. Then heard it again…like a bugle…..Elk! Even though I sped up the trail, never did see them. Have you ever heard a Elk bugle it’s pretty majestic. I was pretty excited, we haven’t seen much wildlife except rabbits, lizards and a bjillion cows.

Even though I slept in, I was on trail by 6:45, only 15 minutes later than usual. I finally got my morning pack up dialed in. It takes a bit to get into a routine that works. Everything goes in the tent every night in the same place. Everything goes in the backpack the same way every morning. Routine keeps me from losing it and by it I mean my stuff and mind. So far the only thing I’ve lost is my shades, doh!

So after a long downhill trek (btw did I mention I luv downhill!) then treading through 4 miles of sand (come on do people really like long walks on the beach, that was exhausting) then a 13 mile road walk on hwy 180 (this trail does not lack variety)…..we got to Silver City!

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Actually after about 7 miles of road walking and running out of water I hitch hiked into town. There was a water tank just before the hwy, but the dead cow next to it made it unappealing. We’re not staying in town. Just grabbing a shower ($7 shower at the local gym, dried off with my bandana, put back on the same dirty clothes…..hiker trash), snacks (need more ramen) and then we’ll camp just out of town. Only 3 days to Doc Campbell’s……..then a 7 stretch to Pie Town that should be interesting!

Stay tuned and Happy Trails

Poked and scratched

AT, Hiking

There are a lot of things that poke and scratch you out here, and then there’s the bob wire fences! I’ve been over, under and around so many fences. But we made it 85 miles back to Lordsburg!

Don’t fence me in…see that CDT sign…that’s the trail.

I got a pretty wicked tan, yea desert hiking! Seven of us left the border at the same time. Most of them flew by us. We kept running into a group of three 2 guys and a girl (ME, Thor, and Garbelly). We would all huddle under the very limited shade spots. Later I found out this was ME’s FIRST thru hike! Go girl!

Now Kelsey and I are sharing a room with Treeman, he’s from Germany and a joy to chat with. Getting showers, laundry and food for the next 3 day leg. Food resupply is easy, with all the heat I didn’t eat much. Kelsey on the other hand has found her Hiker hunger and is resupplying at McDonalds!

20170417_184142 — Double cheeseburgers to pack out!

Guess he wasn’t eating too!

Leaving EARLY tomorrow morning, trying to beat the heat. Next stop Silver City! Only 2915 miles to go….

Happy Trails!

Crap…..another checkpoint

CDT, Hiking

Road trip to Lordsburg, New Mexico went great! How could it not, there was licorice, In N Out, good company lots of chatting and laughing. I get a bit frazzled when I’m leaving, so its good to a friend who can deal with me. It’s only about 8 hrs from San Diego, we made good time even with the stop to get me a new hiking outfit. It’s a short dress, cute and functional, but I miss my skirt. People, trail gear does not have to be expensive…what up Walmart.

Southern Terminus…lets hike!

We tried to make it to the hotel in time to watch Survivor, but we missed it (darn you, Mountain Time). But I did get a CDT buff from Radar! Turns out Kelsey was on the room right next to ours!! Yea, so instead of tv we got ice cream and chatted with Kelsey before the early morning shuttle.

Oh there were a bunch of checkpoints on the 8 & 10 highways, FYI.