PCT – Page 4 – wandering chardonnay

High Sierras

The Sierras have been beautiful with the snow capped mountains, rushing rivers, amazing views and challenging terrain. But I am ready to move on. This has been the toughest section yet. I’ve dealt with nutrition issues, exhaustion and now a sprained ankle. Yea that happened.

Last Friday 3 miles from camp we had to ford a river. The PCT is always throwing some obstacle in your way. Fording rivers is NOT something I like to do. So instead of wading through thigh deep water I tried to cross on a log. Bad idea. I slipped stepping onto it, and fell thank god not in the river. The pain was awful(I heard the crack) but I still had to cross and now I was scared. Yep and crying. (rushing water+ wet shoes +wet log=bad fall)

ankle sprain_preview

But hikers help each other and the guy crossing before me came back, took my pack across, then talked me across, holding my hand as I flung myself from the log to a rock then the other side. The hiking community is made up of some special people. Without his help I might still be there balling.

I limped on to camp hoping this was not a trip ending injury. Laying in my tent that night I decided it wouldn’t be. Heck we were 2 days into 7 day stretch, only one way out, I would have to hike 33 miles just to get to a road. ( being air lifted out just didn’t seem right for a sprain) A retired hiking doctor, Sweeper, taped my ankle.

So my plan was to limp/hike 10 slow miles a day, over Sonora Pass out to a road and hitch to town. Easy, well so it seemed. Except day 1, I took a wrong turn and limp/hiked 3 miles in the wrong direction! Suffice it to say I had a huge breakdown in the middle of nowhere and didn’t get very far that day. I managed day 2 without getting lost, figured out a way to limp/hike faster and made up some miles! Day 3 my confidence buoyed by the thoughts of being somewhere warm and off my ankle that night. I was making great progress stopping occasionally at snow fields to stuff snow in my sock!

Coming over the last snowy pass I knew I would make it! I could see the road from the summit! I could also see the trail winding off around ANOTHER mountain! No I thought, that’s so far. That’s when I made the oh so brilliant choice to-leave-trail, and make a bee line to the road. I could slide down the snow (glissading, way better than limping), cross the wooded field and be there in no time. So off I went. Bad Idea.

PSA: Never leave the trail, especially if you are injured and nobody knows where you are!

After quickly sliding down the mountain I realized the error of my ways. The small wooded field was by no means small and there was a steep drop off between me and said field. DOH! With the sun dropping quickly I couldn’t bring myself to climb back up so I continued on. I found a way down but I would first have to cross a stream of rushing snow melt. Great! Remember that fear of stream crossing I mentioned. After some crying and beating myself up I forded that freezing stream wonky ankle and all. Bushwhacking the whole way I finally made it through that ‘small’ wooded field and up to the highway! After an hour of hitching I finally got a ride from a super nice dude into Bridgeport!
Headed to S Tahoe to rest my ankle then back on trail! I’m going to Canada…only 1004 miles to go…..

Can’t carry it with you, if you want to survive

Hiking, Life, PCT

Do you see the way that tree bends? Does it inspire
Leaning out to catch the sun’s rays. A lesson to be applied.
Are you getting something out of this all encompassing trip?

Seems that needlessly it’s getting harder to find an approach and a way to live. -Eddie Vedder

Laying in my bunk at the hostel last night, hikers sleeping in nearby bunks and rooms. I couldn’t help but think how lucky we all are to have the experience of this journey. It’s all so similar yet so personal. We are all headed the same direction, though the trail is the same our paths will be our own. Getting there will change who are.

camp after Mather pass

I’ve changed, so much I hardly recognized myself when looked in the mirror recently. Or maybe it’s the same I’ve always been I just haven’t been looking close enough. As a solo hiker I’ve had concerns about going over passes, crossing streams and generally wondering around the wilderness with just my paper maps. So imagine my surprise when I realized I had just crossed a roaring stream and was headed up Mather Pass alone. I got hella nervous, especially with gray clouds building. Would it be icy, dangerous, would I be able to find the trail? I took a deep breath ate a handful of gummy bears and just started climbing like crazy, figuring I’d deal with what was on the other side when I got there. I really enjoy hiking on my own, however there is a certain comfort and safety in having others around, ya know. They say you pack you fears. I certainly did, my packs pretty heavy. At some point you have to face them to lighten your load. That’s the learning and growing part, you need to do that on your own. Mather was the second pass that day at 12,100 feet. I summoned energy from who knows where. Got over the pass alright, pushed myself, sliding, post-holing, falling through the wet snow. As the sun slipped behind a mountain I managed to find the trail! Picking up the pace I made it to camp before dark, the boys (Geo and Scout) already there tents up chillin. Two passes and 20 miles, all in one day, in the High Sierras. That’s crazy exhausting and cool! Learning to rely on myself……priceless. Follow me on instagram

while you’re busy making plans

Hiking, PCT

In life you make plans and before you know it they are blown to hell. Same on the trail. You want everything to halt while you regroup but it doesn’t so you just wing it. That’s life.

I’ve been winging it for a while now. Just hike, hike, hike when all else fails push the miles. That was working in the desert portion, pushing my body to get big miles. Got goals, got plans, got a schedule move, move….Not stopping to rest, recover or even enjoy the moment. Well life has away of slowing you down. The Sierras put the brakes on for me.

On the trail I have been saying always move forward not back. Even when we got dire warning’s about going over the passes. Dangerous, scary, whatever, can’t go back must move forward.

I pushed forward through the mountains faster than I should have. Through thigh deep snow. Then I did two passes (Pinchot & Mather) 20 miles in one day. (I was warned to slow it down, but nope) Well lesson learned. The next morning I was beyond exhausted with Muir pass ahead, and I just knew I didn’t have it in me to make it over. I HAD to get off trail, I was losing weight and weak. Happy Feet (he was getting off due to some serious sun burn) and I hiked 22 miles over Bishop Pass then hitched into the town of Bishop.

Yep the Sierras were kicking my butt. The Sierras are like big monsters with snow on them. You fight them all the way up 10, 11, 12000 feet. The reward is breathtaking views, like living in a postcard. But then you must descend and try not to let it chew you up on the way down. I’ve conquered a couple of monsters but it was a tough fight.

Bishop Hostel

ping pong, food, rest

So I am currently recouping in Bishop. Staying at Hostel California! Great place, highly recommend it! I need to rest and resupply for the next section. Rethinking my nutrition. I need to take in ALOT more calories. I’m down 20 pounds, that ain’t good and explains my exhaustion. So I’m off to go make very high calorie mac and cheese, pickup some protein powder and eat, eat, eat! Then back on the trail…..to enjoy the beauty of these monstrous mountains at a slower pace!

Day in the life on trail

Hiking, PCT

Life on the trail….hike, eat, sleep, repeat. My day goes something like this in case you were wondering.

Wake at first light, usually about 5:30 am, lay there staring at tent til I hear other hikers start unzipping tents and sleeping bags. Mornings are the worst part of the day for me as it had been so cold, so I try to do everything from inside my sleeping bag. (I luv my 20 degree bag it is super toasty) Anyway I do a quick wet wipe clean up then take my handful of vitamins. Then I have breakfast, usually a granola bar and peanut butter or a pop tart, the joy of going stoveless!

Then I put my coat on, yep still in sleeping bag. Put on “clean” soak’s and gaiters, pack away electronics and trash. Unzip tent, lay plastic bag outside of tent throw everything inside out into bag, yup I’m still in the sleeping bag. (if I could figure out a way to pack my tent while still in my bag I would) ok now I get out and stuff it away and finally get out of tent.

sierras chicken lake

From this point I quickly pack everything into backpack so my little fingers don’t freeze. Then I hike and warm up quickly, so then starts the disrobing part of the day. (this goes on all day sometimes, coat orn, coat off, shirt on shirt off).

I usually stuff my hip belt with protein bars so I don’t have to stop to eat. I like to keep moving, it’s a forward momentum thing. Once I stop it takes a while to get back to cruising speed.

sierras chillin

When things workout I like to get to camp about 6:30 pm, throw up my tent and hop in if it’s chilly. If not I’ll sit outside on my pad and have cold (sometimes dry) ramen or salami and triskets! If there is a fire in camp I love to sit and chat, if not I’m in my tent. Yup this cold spell is killing my social game. Either way once in my tent I wet wipe my feet massage them with lotion, take some vitamin I, record daily mileage, review maps for the next day then…..lights out. Hey hiker midnight is 9pm, so yeah.

It just got real

Hiking, PCT

I’ve been seriously deep in nature! At mile 790 and it’s been a trip getting here. Took my first zero(s) at mile 702 in Kennedy Meadows, no rest day in a hotel as there is not one anywhere near there, but I did camp in a teepee! (check our my instagram @elsyew, I haven’t figured out how to post pics here yet).

Anyway up until now we have just been hiking trying to stay hydrated. But once you hit Kennedy Meadows it’s like planning an expedition. People have ice axe’s, crampons extra clothes and a million plans. I got none of that. I’m just winging it, with my new shoes and insulated over sized gloves)! That’s how I ended up trudging through a snow storm 2 days out of Kennedy Meadows! Yeah…what weather report? But I survived and didn’t freeze to death, so far. Yeah me.(side note:low snow year does not mean no snow or warmer temps..just so you know)

My dreams of climbing Whitney were dashed as there was just waaay too much snow. When 2 guys with ice axes and crampon’s aren’t going I figured I’d better pass too. I’m crazy not stupid.

I’ve been hiking with Toasted Toad, he found me wondering around, kinda lost, just past the Kern River. Darn paper maps. So with Whitney out, on we went to Forester Pass, the highest point on the PCT at 13,153 feet. The hike up was looong, snowy and cold. I have seen pictures but to see it with your own eyes CRAZY!!! At the approach a guy told us “don’t go, it’s too dangerous, it’s not worth risking your life”. But heck at that point it was either go over or hike back 16 miles, nope no going back. I was crossing the pass with Toasted Toad (a retired special agent) so figured I was in good hands. So on we went! It was all good, sun shining and all, til we crossed over the pass, then it got real. And I thought that guy may have been right.

Forester Pass…….

The north face of the mountain was all socked in! You couldn’t see the trail or 20 feet in front of you. I was seriously concerned, we were post holing, slipping, falling….it was beyond an adventure. But we made it, finally, thank the sweet baby Jesus. I have never been happier to see other tents. Then we got to camp and got snowed on overnight…3 inches! Yeah that happened.

So right not I am at a hostel in Independence, CA with the others that survived the pass trying to regroup and figure out a plan to move forward……

Stay tuned….

Nero Zero breakdown

Hiking, PCT, Uncategorized

Made it to Kennedy Meadows, that is major. The gateway to the Sierras! 700 miles without a Zero! Financially that is great because I can’t afford all the the hotels and time in town. The last few miles into KM were long and winding, but I was pumped every time I got a glimpse of the Sierras! Walking up to the General Store (where I would camp, shower, eat, and worry) was great the hikers sitting on the patio cheer for you as you walk up, nice!

bear canister- thanks for the loan

Staying 3 days in KM was not in the plans….but, first I needed to pick up my bear canister that I got through the loan program. You only need the canister mainly through the Sierras, so they loan it to you and you mail it back when done! Second, I needed the rest and the opportunity to socialize with other hikers. Chatting with other hikers was good and bad, though. It was nice to know that other people struggled or disliked the same sections that I did. Sitting around the deck or the fire at night laughing and learning about everyone is a big part of this experience. However, the guys quickly picked up on my nervousness about the Sierras. They made a point in telling me all the scary hypothermia stories they could think of. This combined with the incoming storm, plus watching people pull rope, ice axes, gloves and well, winter gear from their packages sent me into a tizzy. Bring on the wine!!

My wine peeps!

KM General Store

Quickly realizing I might be unprepared for the mountains, moreover my finger less gloves might not cut it. Luckily, I was able to score a ride into town with another hiker and headed straight for the outfitters!

So headed into the Sierras, hopefully I won’t freeze to death. But I made it through the last snow storm. So send me lots of warm vibes!

tent inside teepee, yes!!

Desert wind

Hiking, PCT

Hiked out onto the California aqua duct alone, the first mile or so is open then it’s covered. It’s a mostly flat section so I was dinking along til Willie and 7 caught up to me. Man these guys are great to hike with. Willie is a marathoner and 7 has well, done the 7 summit’s! They are older gents but they smoke me every-time. We whipped out 24 miles in no time, I was distracted trying to keep up and chatting!

Jetta Blue- Mojave

aquaduct

After the aqueduct we hiked through a giant wind farm. Yep it was super freakin windy. Climbed a big hill (always) then down to camp in Tylerhorse Canyon. It was a great campsite til the wind started. The wind blew down my tent 3 times! After the third time I just said screw it an slept in in collapsed tent. About 4am the wind finally stopped.

Dragged my sleepy self out of the tent at 6 and chased Willie & 7 the 17 miles into Mojave. Great trail angel Jetta Blue drove us the 11 miles into town from the trailhead. Resting here tonight til the post office opens tomorrow for my bounce box. Then I start my last week in the desert!

It never rains in Southern California

Hiking, PCT

Yea….that’s crap. It rains and it’s super chilly. I’ve been cold pretty much since Mt Laguna, weird since this is the desert portion.

For the most part it is a blessing, climbing those last mountains would have sucked in the heat. I’ve been hiking with the 3 wise men (Stewart, Willie and Little Brown) since about Cajon Pass. They are a joy and a challenge. I struggle to keep up on the uphill as they fly up, then I catch up on the downhill. They may be older but they have serious hiker legs. They’re also pretty cool to chat with.

Stewart had to hop off the trail for a bit and Willie had to wait for a package, so I have been chasing Little Brown up the hills the last couple of miles.

A quick stop at trail angels the Anderson’s -Casa de Luna. (thanks Terry for the hot chocolate, bandanna, ride back to the trail….! Wish I could have stayed longer and had taco salad, but the trail calls) The weather caught up to us last night, just made it to camp before it really started to rain. (If you happen to be in Lake Hughes, CA stop in the Rock Inn neat place, good food) Anyway, I stayed dry (so I guess my seam sealing worked, yeah!). I took the 10 mile road walk detour made it to Hikertown to let my tent dry out,order shoes and figure out this next section.

All in all I have been chilly but lucky. Some hikers got hail or snow. Stay safe & warm out there wherever you are.

Attempting a Thru Hike

Hiking, PCT, Uncategorized

Now I understand why people say ‘attempting a thru hike’. There is no guarantee you are going to make it, period. So many temptations, injuries oh and the mind games.

Once in town it is very hard to not want to stay….for awhile. The comforts of food, shower’s, and well, clean water make it tough to hike on. Momentarily I am taking a nero (short mile day) in Wrightwood, this place is great…..they have water and stuff!

There are so many people off the trail already due to injuries, blisters, shin splints, hips…you name it. So thankful every day my body is holding up, for now.

Now the mind games….walking for hours with nothing to do but think, well it can be tricky. Without all the things to distract you like work , tv, computers, people….your mind is going there. Sometimes it’s rough, I call it trail therapy.

The post brought to you by water

Hiking, PCT

So water is a thing out here, for real. You need it, you want, you plan where to find it, but you don’t want to carry it. (I don’t)

I was concerned about water before I left, so I carried a bunch, well 4 liters, which is a lot for me. I was really not wanting to get into the whole filtering water thing right away either. It’s a process with my mini Sawyer water filter.

So the other morning, I hiked down to the water source, a stream. I decided to pour water from my bottle into the Camelback without removing it from my backpack, bad idea. Before I could stop it water was pouring into my pack! Doah! I took off my socks and shoes to quickly cross the stream then spread everything out to dry. By the time I filtered water and got my shoes back on things were more or less dry. Lesson learned.

water