Fontana Dam, gateway to the Smokey Mountains. I’ve increased my mileage so I should make it through the Smokeys in about 3 days, if the weather cooperates!
Seems I’ve already made a name for myself. People keep going “oh, your chardonnay, we heard about you.” I guess being the only black girl around for miles and pushing 20+ miles gets you noticed and talked about. Also the fact I’ve done the PCT too.
A guy called me fast, ha!! Not even, I’m totally slow crawlin up these hills. I do scrambled down pretty quickly to make up time. But I’m only doing 20+ days because I hike ALL day.
I had a fun time at the NOC, watched some kayaking and had some beers with other hikers. I didn’t want to stay in the bunkhouse (tight budget), so I hiked out all tipsy! Made the climb outta there interesting. By 9pm I still wasn’t at the shelter. So I just camped at the first spot I could find. Turns out I was only like 2 miles away! But I woke to a beautiful sunrise!
Shout out to Eagle! He is 69 and thru hiked the AT in 2012. He is back on the trail section hiking Springer to Hot Springs, NC.
It’s raining, but more on that later…. So made it to Franklin, North Carolina 109 miles on the trail. Stayed at the Muskrat shelter with a fun group Plodding Bison (from Ohio) & Dig Deep (from New Orleans) two great ladies. Another lady told me I was the only person of color shes ever seen on the trail, she was from Jackson, MS…gotta love the south, we had a lovely conversation over dinner. Met a guy Endless he was on the PCT last year too, he has a great blog, check it out here! He is really moving, wish I could keep up.
With rain in the forecast I set out for my biggest day yet 25 miles, it was a really good hike with a rock scramble up to a fire tower and then it was downhill coast. I made it to the shelter without getting wet but then it poured all night.. In the morning five of us tried hitching to town in the rain. Luckily after an hour a free shuttle came by. Now I’m in town drying out, listening to the sad news about Prince.
Will soon be entering the Smokey Mountains. Don’t really have a resupply plan for that yet, guess I’ll just keep winging it. I’m hoping to get through there in about 5 days. But then ya never know what’s ahead, right?
****Special Note***
I’m dedicating the next 100 miles to my nephew, Jordan Walker Polk! He recently got a heart transplant and is fighting his way back to 100%! Jordan you are in my heart & thoughts every step. I love you, stay strong.
“There’s always gonna be another mountain
I’m always gonna wanna make it move
Always gonna be an uphill battle
Sometimes I’m gonna have to lose
Ain’t about how fast I get there
Ain’t about what’s waitin’ on the other side
It’s the climb”
What have I been doing? Climbing mountains. The Georgia mountains are no joke. You’re always going up out here unless you’re going down to get water and then you get your water and come back up. Even though the climbs are tough it is very beautiful. It’s warming up and the flowers are sprouting! But tomorrow I get to head into North Carolina! One state down 13 more to go! Gonna have to step up my mileage if I’m going to make it to Trail Days!
When I did my preparation, I compared gear reviews from a bunch of blogs, journals and websites. It was my intention to forgo comfort for less weight. That sorta happened. They say you pack your fears and mine was cold. So I carried cold weather gear the whole trip weight be darned. So let’s get started.
Tent: Six moon – Scout
tent inside teepee, yes!!
Upside: Light weight
Downside: Honestly I wasn’t too happy with this choice. Anybody around when I put it up knows of my displeasure. Using trekking poles as tent poles is great til you break your poles in the middle of the woods. Plus staking it down was kinda a pain, especially setting up in the rain or snow.
Sleeping bag: Big Agnes Mirror 20 degree
Upside: Simply put, warm. Even when I cowboy camped and it got all wet, I was warm inside. When it was warm I just threw it over me, still great.
Backpack: ULA Circuit
Upside: Light weight, the fit was great, held more than enough stuff and really sturdy.
Downside: Could use like two more pockets. Also wish there was a way to put away and get poles without having to take off my pack. Like if I could whip them on the pack all ninja style would be cool. But maybe that’s asking too much.
Trekking Poles: Black Diamond Z/MSR. Talus Sure lock
Upside: The Black Diamond was great & light weight, til they broke. Not even sure how, it just snapped at the z part. First one then the other. But they lasted all but 2 weeks. The MSR were a tad bit heavier, but super sturdy. (thanks Dinsmore’s for the poles)
Downside: I really only use the poles when I want to really move or crossing water. Most of the time they are strapped to my pack. However, they were necessary for my tent.
Shoes: Brooks Cascadia 9/New Balance
Ok, so here is the shoe situation. August 2014 I got my Brooks to tryout, loved them. So I trained in them and started the PCT in them. So great comfy, light weight and no blisters. I was happy as a chipmunk, however they had plenty of miles from the jump. So by the time I went to order more (around the Sierras), too late. I could only find Brooks 10 in my size (not my fav). My bad. So I picked up some New Balance and shipped my lovingly used Brooks to Ashland. The NB did not work for me, my feet are flat and weird, but they got me to Ashland where I slipped back into my old Brooks. Now yes I should have gotten new shoes, but I tend to make do and I wanted to ride it out. So I slipped in some inserts and made it to Canada. I don’t recommend this. Ok enough about shoes.
Rain gear: Or lack the of =poncho
I did not have adequate rain gear. There I said it. A rain poncho works well….until it doesn’t. Lesson learned, invest in rain jacket and pack cover. Even though nothing in my pack got wet, except for when I spilled water in there.
Energizer Headlamp: It was inexpensive and worked like it was, but it worked. Basically it just wasn’t very bright.
Cold Weather Gear:
Laundry Puffy jacket-not the lightest, but inexpensive and warm
Cool Max long sleeve top- loved it, kept me super warm!
Wool hat, fingerless gloves (camo insulated gloves for Sierras), leggings, cropped workout pants. Surprisingly this all kept me toasty enough.
Socks- I had a lot of socks, so weird, I lost some, bought some, was gifted some. I really liked the Thorlos and the Darn Tough the best though.
Well I think that is it. I really didn’t have that much stuff. Daily I wore my black skirt (found at a thrift store years ago and used to bike in, that skirt could tell some stories). Topped it off with a Columbia short sleeved shirt (loved it even more when I found the hidden pocket), dirty girl gaiters (all the kids are wearing um) sports bra and my Pat hat!
So time ton start working on my new gear list…….I’m gonna need some things!!!
Well if you haven’t heard I freakin made it to Canada! I can’t believe it! Got to the northern terminus on August 13, 2015 at 9am!
Left Skykomich (thanks for the ride Matt!) and took the ferry from Chelan to Stehekin. Steheken is a great place you can only get to by ferry, float plan, or hiking. The fire was just across the lake, we could see flames from our campsite. (thanks to those fighting the fires, you guys are incredible). Got to stop in the famous bakery. Had ice cream, a cookie, monster cinnamon roll, and the biggest croissant every filled with cheese & bacon. So much yummy goodness! Visit Stehekin, the people are so nice, the lake is beautiful and bring me one of those croissants!
After stuffing myself we hiked on to Rainy Pass and hitched into Mazama. I was worried my last package won’t make it, since we had to change the shipping at the last minute. But Leslie was on the ball, and it got there just minutes before I did! After a quick resupply Goat and I headed for Harts Pass. There was trail magic there, muffins, fruits and drinks! Thanks Meander!
We camped 6 miles out from the border and celebrated a bit! I woke the next day in a mood, due a lack of sleep. There was a deer (with a huge rack) eating outside my tent all night, seriously I could hear it chewing. Guess we were in his dinner spot! My mood improved once we started those last miles, to the monument.
I’ll tell ya it was kinda weird when we got there. I had imagined it for so long. So hard to believe it was over and I had made it. That and I also had 30 more miles back to Harts pass, so it wasn’t really over for me.
2015 pct register
wine and reflection PCT
After many pictures, signing the register and some mashed potatoes (I was super hungry) we said our goodbyes and Goat headed into Canada while I headed back to Harts pass. (Goat you were a great hiking partner! Thanks for the laughs, trail chat, pushing me and putting up with my crazy especially in the rain! Lol)
The 30 mile hike back was a great decompression. Plus I got to see many friends headed to the border. Came around one corner there was Toasted Toad! Happy trails to you man I will never forget Forester Pass!
Did I mention how beautiful Washington is? I will definitely be back! The views, lakes, mountains, only second to the Sierras, in my opinion. I was told there was another fire the smoke & helicopters confirmed it. We were very lucky to get through before the northern fire closures. There is a reroute so people can still get through! Good luck to all those still pushing to the border! Stay safe and happy trails!
To all those I hiked with or crossed paths with on trail, let me just say Thru Hikers are a special kind of crazy and I wouldn’t want it any other way! Thanks for being part of my journey. See you on the next trail….yes there will be more!!!
Well I can’t seem to shake this weather bubble. Hiking through Oregon, it is a beautiful place. But, there is always a but, it is chilly. Actually it rained/hailed on us the whole first week. It was so cold & wet one day I yelled (while crying, yes crying) at my hiking buddy “that’s it, I’m done & getting in my tent, you do what you want.” So we put up the tents and of course it stopped raining.
So it now it is sunny but the mornings are chilly, especially since we are hiking starting at 4am! Not my fav since I am not a morning person.
Most hikers at this point are pretty beat up but pushing to Canada. In central Oregon everyone seems to be resting up with some time off trail. We are lucky my friend Teri has picked us up and whisked us to her lovely home to rest! Much luv! I have the best friends!
With only 700 miles to go it’s hard to believe that this crazy journey will be ending soon. Everyday I am reminded how extremely lucky I am. So many amazing people I’ve shared time and experiences with. Breathtaking views that make the makes all the aches and pains worth it! Can’t walk to Canada without a little suffering. It’s making us stronger and different people! Who will I be when this is all over?
So if you haven’t heard….I finally made it to Oregon!!! Less than a thousand miles left to Canada, I can’t believe it. Getting there
So I left Etna, California hiking with a Turkish guy, trail name Goat. He is fun an a great hiker (he hikes 40 mile days for fun). He also has an injury. Honestly we are all pretty banged up at this point but, gotta get to Canada. Our plan was to hike slower/less miles and heal up. So on July 4th we hiked 14 miles, then 21, then 29! So much for that plan.
Oh well, we were just too excited about getting to Oregon. We are both feeling better though. I have slowed him down (he can’t help but go fast), and he is fattening me up (trying). I have enjoyed hiking with Goat, he is fast but really enjoys the experience; taking many beautiful pictures and breaks! On break he makes sure I eat. He has a stove makes bean burritos plus tea and coffee in the middle of the day! (yea, I’m rethinking this whole stoveless plan) So my last days in California were filled with new experiences, including cowboy camping (that’s no tent, just throwing down your sleeping pad/bag), hiking at 4am (yep, that happened), and 2 more bear sightings!
There was a good group of us headed to the Oregon border, we had plans to celebrate. We got rained on. So my first day in Oregon was a wet one. In Ashland now drying out stuff and trying to pickup packages, then back on the trail. The race to Canada is heating up and I am really excited to see Crater Lake!
Hey y’all, I’m in Etna,Ca mile 1597! Looks like I’ll be here for a day or two to recuperate. We’ve really been pushing it through NorCal (I have no idea why). Averaging 27 mile days has put us ahead of the pack and me with hurting feet and underweight (again).
Goat, Samson & Iron Chef
load up…rolling out
Etna Hostel w/Snickers
So I am resting my feet. Not sure what to do about this eating thing. Hiker hunger where are you? I should be stuffing my face, but I just have no appetite. Maybe it’s partly the heat (it’s hotter than blazes with lots of climbing) so I am at a constant calorie deficit. I try to force myself to eat (ha never thought I’d be saying that) but it is hard to get in 3-4 thousand calories that way. Down to 138 lbs, yikes. But trail magic =Unexpected generosity from a non-hiker! I had some tasty blueberry pie yesterday thanks to Steady. Maybe I should just stuff my food bag with pie.
In other news I saw my 3rd bear, he turned and ran too. Probably never seen a stick figure strolling through the woods!
Hey guys! I’m finally past the midpoint and….drum roll…..I did my first 30 mile day! Whiskers gave me a big ankle bandage that really helps with support. I’m still babying it and popping vitamin I every now and then. But moving!
The Midway point!
Midpoint 1325 miles to Canada!
Got so excited about being half way……I walked off and left my trekking poles. Luckily I remembered and jogged back for them! I’ve been hiking with Kelsey and we have been averaging 27 miles lately. It’s been pretty nice being at a lower elevation. Oh, and it is warm!!! Hot even. So nice not having to pack a frozen tent with frozen fingers!
For now we are playing escape California! Oregon is so close but yet so far, 280 miles away. I’ve also ran through my 2nd pair of shoes. I got 700 miles out of them but I guess 2 weeks in snow and water was a bit much.
The Sierras have been beautiful with the snow capped mountains, rushing rivers, amazing views and challenging terrain. But I am ready to move on. This has been the toughest section yet. I’ve dealt with nutrition issues, exhaustion and now a sprained ankle. Yea that happened.
Last Friday 3 miles from camp we had to ford a river. The PCT is always throwing some obstacle in your way. Fording rivers is NOT something I like to do. So instead of wading through thigh deep water I tried to cross on a log. Bad idea. I slipped stepping onto it, and fell thank god not in the river. The pain was awful(I heard the crack) but I still had to cross and now I was scared. Yep and crying. (rushing water+ wet shoes +wet log=bad fall)
But hikers help each other and the guy crossing before me came back, took my pack across, then talked me across, holding my hand as I flung myself from the log to a rock then the other side. The hiking community is made up of some special people. Without his help I might still be there balling.
I limped on to camp hoping this was not a trip ending injury. Laying in my tent that night I decided it wouldn’t be. Heck we were 2 days into 7 day stretch, only one way out, I would have to hike 33 miles just to get to a road. ( being air lifted out just didn’t seem right for a sprain) A retired hiking doctor, Sweeper, taped my ankle.
So my plan was to limp/hike 10 slow miles a day, over Sonora Pass out to a road and hitch to town. Easy, well so it seemed. Except day 1, I took a wrong turn and limp/hiked 3 miles in the wrong direction! Suffice it to say I had a huge breakdown in the middle of nowhere and didn’t get very far that day. I managed day 2 without getting lost, figured out a way to limp/hike faster and made up some miles! Day 3 my confidence buoyed by the thoughts of being somewhere warm and off my ankle that night. I was making great progress stopping occasionally at snow fields to stuff snow in my sock!
Coming over the last snowy pass I knew I would make it! I could see the road from the summit! I could also see the trail winding off around ANOTHER mountain! No I thought, that’s so far. That’s when I made the oh so brilliant choice to-leave-trail, and make a bee line to the road. I could slide down the snow (glissading, way better than limping), cross the wooded field and be there in no time. So off I went. Bad Idea.
PSA: Never leave the trail, especially if you are injured and nobody knows where you are!
After quickly sliding down the mountain I realized the error of my ways. The small wooded field was by no means small and there was a steep drop off between me and said field. DOH! With the sun dropping quickly I couldn’t bring myself to climb back up so I continued on. I found a way down but I would first have to cross a stream of rushing snow melt. Great! Remember that fear of stream crossing I mentioned. After some crying and beating myself up I forded that freezing stream wonky ankle and all. Bushwhacking the whole way I finally made it through that ‘small’ wooded field and up to the highway! After an hour of hitching I finally got a ride from a super nice dude into Bridgeport!
Headed to S Tahoe to rest my ankle then back on trail! I’m going to Canada…only 1004 miles to go…..
wandering chardonnay 